Oventic, Chiapas: Visit to an Autonomous Snail
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On our last full day before leaving Mexico, we fled the country. Or at least the territory controlled by the Mexican government. We were staying in San Cristobal, Chiapas, partly to learn more about the area’s indigenous and Zapatista movements. Soon, we learned that a new autonomous Zapatista municipality called Oventic had started welcoming visitors.
After enticing two new French friends to join our expedition, we boarded an unmarked van headed for Oventic. Up the winding mountain roads, past the military base, and crossing into Zapatista territory, we were finally deposited at the town’s gates. A sentry interviewed us briefly about our intentions, took our passports, and then invited us to walk around the gates and wait in the cooperative café until Zapatista representatives were ready to meet with us.
The entrance to Oventic: “Welcome to the caracol (snail) of resistance and rebellion for humanity”
Two hours of nervous waiting later, we were escorted to a small hut. Inside, three masked Zapatista men greeted us from behind a table. I briefly explained who we were and what we were interested in discussing. During the next hour we learned how Oventic functions as the core of a larger Zapatista “caracol” (snail), with 7 other interlinked municipalities radiating out from and in to Oventic. Renate and I had prepared a list of specific questions about the autonomous legal and governance systems, but the community representatives seemed to have difficulty explaining the details of their work. Gunshots went off nearby, and we exchanged nervous glances.
We were then invited to meet with members of the Board of Good Governance (Junta de Buen Gobierno) - the main government body of the caracol. Four more masked men (about 1/3 of the Board) further explained the new services the community had developed for itself, without help from the Mexican government. After finishing our discussion, we walked around to have a look at these services and the other community buildings. With the afternoon drawing to a close, another van transported us back into Mexican territory, to San Cristobal.
Reflection
We left Oventic full of adrenaline and thoughts, not to mention heaping portions of autonomous beans and rice. What were we to make of the rebellious low-fi snail in the middle of the mountains? Should democratic government representatives wear masks? Should community health centers (and every other building) be adorned with murals of gunmen? Which of our friends would most appreciate a snail-shaped slingshot as a souvenir? And most importantly, should we count Oventic as a separate country in our vital signs list?
We were most conflicted, however, about the seeming lack of specific answers to our specific questions. When I asked exactly how communities decided what services to provide, the answer was “through discussion.” When Renate asked how the Board of Good Governance decided criminal cases, the answer was “together with the community.” To us, the answers seemed like rhetoric, and yet they appeared to be sufficient for the Zapatistas.
As anal-retentive Americans, we expected democratic governance and community justice to be grounded in formal decision-making processes and legal codes. In the North, clearly delineated rules, regulations, and procedures often seem necessary to ensure democratic participation and prevent injustice – and to resolve everyday issues in our workplaces and homes. The Zapatistas, however, seemed to prefer more flexibility, fewer restrictions, and decision-making that emerged naturally and organically from community members.
Question
When has “organic” decision-making worked (or not worked) for you?
On our last full day before leaving Mexico, we fled the country. Or at least the territory controlled by the Mexican government. We were staying in San Cristobal, Chiapas, partly to learn more about the area’s indigenous and Zapatista movements. Soon, we learned that a new autonomous Zapatista municipality called Oventic had started welcoming visitors.
After enticing two new French friends to join our expedition, we boarded an unmarked van headed for Oventic. Up the winding mountain roads, past the military base, and crossing into Zapatista territory, we were finally deposited at the town’s gates. A sentry interviewed us briefly about our intentions, took our passports, and then invited us to walk around the gates and wait in the cooperative café until Zapatista representatives were ready to meet with us.
The entrance to Oventic: “Welcome to the caracol (snail) of resistance and rebellion for humanity”
Two hours of nervous waiting later, we were escorted to a small hut. Inside, three masked Zapatista men greeted us from behind a table. I briefly explained who we were and what we were interested in discussing. During the next hour we learned how Oventic functions as the core of a larger Zapatista “caracol” (snail), with 7 other interlinked municipalities radiating out from and in to Oventic. Renate and I had prepared a list of specific questions about the autonomous legal and governance systems, but the community representatives seemed to have difficulty explaining the details of their work. Gunshots went off nearby, and we exchanged nervous glances.
We were then invited to meet with members of the Board of Good Governance (Junta de Buen Gobierno) - the main government body of the caracol. Four more masked men (about 1/3 of the Board) further explained the new services the community had developed for itself, without help from the Mexican government. After finishing our discussion, we walked around to have a look at these services and the other community buildings. With the afternoon drawing to a close, another van transported us back into Mexican territory, to San Cristobal.
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| View from the caracol center | Office of the Board of Good Government |
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| Community health clinic | Zapatista schoolhouse |
Reflection
We left Oventic full of adrenaline and thoughts, not to mention heaping portions of autonomous beans and rice. What were we to make of the rebellious low-fi snail in the middle of the mountains? Should democratic government representatives wear masks? Should community health centers (and every other building) be adorned with murals of gunmen? Which of our friends would most appreciate a snail-shaped slingshot as a souvenir? And most importantly, should we count Oventic as a separate country in our vital signs list?
We were most conflicted, however, about the seeming lack of specific answers to our specific questions. When I asked exactly how communities decided what services to provide, the answer was “through discussion.” When Renate asked how the Board of Good Governance decided criminal cases, the answer was “together with the community.” To us, the answers seemed like rhetoric, and yet they appeared to be sufficient for the Zapatistas.
As anal-retentive Americans, we expected democratic governance and community justice to be grounded in formal decision-making processes and legal codes. In the North, clearly delineated rules, regulations, and procedures often seem necessary to ensure democratic participation and prevent injustice – and to resolve everyday issues in our workplaces and homes. The Zapatistas, however, seemed to prefer more flexibility, fewer restrictions, and decision-making that emerged naturally and organically from community members.
Question
When has “organic” decision-making worked (or not worked) for you?
1 Comments:
At 9:58 AM, lernerm said…
It hasn't worked for me, and I suspect it doesn't work that well in general, if only because of the tendency of the less powerful,less eloquent and less forceful to be dominated by those who are powerful, forceful and good speakers. We know that people can be intimidated by others if there are no rules to protect their rights (and even if there are such rules in place). I'm a bit skeptical of what you've described - it reminds me of revolutionary rhetoric about how the peoples committees are democratic in places such as the Soviet Union (remember that), or wherever, when in fact they ar just another way for people to be oppressed. I'd love to see some hard data on how fair and democratic things really are.
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